Climb Every Mountain
My first inkling that I was in for a memorable ride was on the approach to the Gran Sasso Range. Perched high,and I do mean HIGH,on the mountaintop I saw what I, at first, thought was an outcrop of rock. What was Ithinking?! OF COURSE, it was a building!! The Italians are experts at constructing edifices on seemingly unscaleable slopes. The foundation of the fortress at Rocco Calascio dates back to 1000CE. and is now one of the most popular destinations in Abruzzo.
Let me tell you—never,Never, NEVER take such a road trip with an Italian! Their expressive hand gestures are a charming characteristic of the culture, but ABSOLUTELY TERRIFYINGwhen one is driving,ascending a long winding road!
Every part of me (not just my bowels) clenched with fear several times when Anna let go of the wheel to stress a point. I’d read that people who have rehearsed escae plans in case of emergency have an increased chance of survival. I silently repeated “I will be able to walk away from the wreckage if the car goes through the barrier and plunges down this mountainside.”
eventually we arrived at the town of Calascio and parked. Climbing (more climbing?!)a well maintained trail,we arrived at Rocco Calascio. I wondered how many people had died during its raising. Someone had to cut, haul and lift all those stone into place. The stronghold was destroyed in an earthquake in 1703 and the ruins stand silently,made allthemoremystical by the otherworldly music reverberating off the rocks. Franco, self-appointed guardian of the castle,sat playing a hand pan, an instrument which originated, surprisingly, in Switzerland and can be heard now at every hippy gathering outside of Burning Man. After crawling over the bridge which spanned a gap,I conquered my fear of heights and climbed the stairs to the tower top for a quick look.
Afterwards,down in the town,we met Franco 2, a crystal healer. He was the opposite of Franco 1. Where F1 radiated calm, F2 truly embodied the phrase “all the world’s a stage.” He gave us blessings and”read”our horoscopes in an extremely animated “performance”. He studied crystal therapy in California and Mexico and is eager to share his knowledge before he dies.
After lunching on pasta with cinghalia (wild pig), we headed deeper into the park where the spaghetti westerns were filmed decades before. The geology changed dramatically. Instead of the verdant fields and neat vineyards I associate with Italy, the high desert spread before us in shades of brown, green and purple. Back in the day, this was sheep country and a Statue honors shepherd Pupi Nunzio di Rocio and his children who were lost in a sudden storm. The road is closed during the winter as snowfall can exceed 7 feet. Next time I visit Abruzzo, I want to spend the night at the foot of these mountains, stargazing under the endless expanse of sky.
A gentle drive on mostly empty roads led us to San Stefano de Sessanio, known as the most beautiful medieval village in the region. Controlled by the powerful Medici family, it was an enter of trade due to the area’s wealth from wool. Indeed,the black wool was used exclusively for military uniforms and monk’s robes. the earthquake of 2009 severely damage the town, and the bell tower has since been rebuilt. Despite ongoing reconstruction, the city hosts many visitors who stroll the stone streets, browse the boutiques and attend the yearly jazz festival. Ducking under scaffolding and walking past piles of rubble, I again called on my Black Prepper skills, making notes of routes to dart down in case of another tremor strikes.
We ended the night with a snack of fries. panini and a beer at the joint near Anna’s house. Wild boars darted across the road as we approached her home, a fitting salute to a long day of adventure in Abruzzo.
PHOTOS. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CayHiouPwrjQ8hd5A
